1997 Limited Edition Toyota Supra Twin Turbo
Owner: Stuart Hagen
August 2010 Fuel System
Finally had to fess up and install a upgraded Fuel System. I ran for 2 years with a Kenny Bell Boost-A-Pump to decrease the Injector Duty. It worked, gave me about 5%. Enough to keep it a bit more safe at 95% vrs 100%. This was prior to the GT28 installation. So out came the BAP and in came the full fuel upgrade. I decided on Injector Dynamics ID1000s, FIC fuel rail. Pre-made Parker Teflon -6AN lines. 2 new Bosch 950-0155 (stock) fuel pumps.
I also removed all the pins from all the connectors and made new wires and new pins. So the Pigtail from the fuel tank top connector to the BP1 connector are all new. I did not want to cut and splice for the 2nd fuel pump. I wanted the +12v wires to be red. I did the same thing inside the fuel hanger/cannister. You can see this in the last 3 pictures.
Basic Layout
Fuel Pump Wiring
2nd Fuel Pump Wiring for using Integraded circuit control
Fuel Hanger-1
Fuel Hanger-2
Re-wired FP Connector
Re-Wired Mid Connector
The wiring and theory is unique to most set-ups. The stock FP ECU is controlled by the car's main computer. Main purpose is to only run the fuel pumps when the engine is actually running. A Major safety thing. The other function of the ECU to FP ECU is running the FP at 9v up to 4000 rpms, then 12v above. This is done by the main ECU sending a 2v signal to the FP ECU telling it to pump out only 9v up to 4000 rpms. The the main ECU sends a 4v signal to the FP ECU to raise the voltage output to 12v above 4000 rpms. So I built a electronic circuit board using a "comparator" integrated circuit tapping off the ECU 2v to 4v signal. The function is to have a "referance voltage" to one side (I used 3v). When the input voltage is less than 3v, the circuit remains inactive (running stock 9v operation). But when the output voltage goes to 4v, it fires the circuit on, which then turns on a 40A relay. This relay then sends 12v to my new 2nd fuel pump. The basics here is that I am running on 1 stock fuel pump, totally stock in form from FP to the filter under 4000 rpms. Above 4000 rpms, the 2nd fuel pump is brought on-line to supply the extra fuel pressure needed under heavy loads. This serves a dual purpose. One, the 2nd FP is never running unless I am under boost or load. So things are quieter. Two, it is safer not having the 2nd FP running. Three, the car runs better because it is running at 9v which isnt overpowering by increased fuel flow.
Injectors and final hose routing/installtion is not finished. Will post when finished. When all done, I will install the Vipec, and a GM flex fuel sensor and convert to E85. Which is the driving force for this larger than normal fuel system upgrade.
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January 2010: Finally, I have installed my own set of GT28's. I have additional pictures coming shortly. I have not been able to tune the car because of the weather. I have new Saard style 650cc injectors, Aeromotive FPR, and modified fuel rail. I had issues with oil leaks coming off the new turbo's supply and drain lines due to defective parts. But all is fixed. I am still having a custom exhaust manifold built whcih should be near spring 2010. The car feels about 30% stronger over the first set of US Upgrades. I am hoping to get close to 600whp on 101 fuel. I should be able to get close to 30psi with my custom adjustable wastegate spring.
In additon, I have installed a custom circuitry that changes the FP voltage to 16v at 4000rpms. It reads the 9v-12v signal the stock ECU sends to the fuel pump and when it triggers to 12v, it kicks in a secondary voltage supply. This should do the trick as opposed to adding a 2nd fuel pump. Good thing about this is it runs a 9v up to 4000 rpms. So it stays quite. I have noticed this reduces the injector duty cycle by about 7%,
Last new electronic addition is my newly designed "pre-transition" boost controller. It connects to the ECU via MAP wire and intercepts the feed to the EBV VSV. It reads the MAP boost voltage and when it reaches a pre-set level, it closes and allows for prespool. Somewhat of an electronic boost level controller device. Range for pre-transition boost is from stock at around 10psi up to about 1- Bar, or just under 15psi. This is a better method than the manual boost controller, plus the ease of in car adjustment.
New~! January 2008. I finally received the long awaited set of Hybrid GT28R non-ball bearing turbo's from BNR. The design and workmanship is superior. A lot of work went into these to provide a unique style and design. They are VSR balanced to 150,000rpm (24psi) and have the capability to achieve 30 psi with the right mods. There compressor map is very similar to a GT28RS. They will install totally OEM with only a few modifications like cutting the rubber couplers 3/8" and notching the heat shield a little for the oil inlet. They will be sequential if desired. More later when installed~!
(Working on the oil and water line kit right now.)
A custom manifold will soon be available, but not recommended unless additional mods are done. Since these turbo's have the possibility for 600whp fuel systems are required. If the goal is 500-525 whp, then fueling may not be needed and definitely not the manifold.
May 30, 2008 GT28 Twin Turbo Conversion is Here~! Now for sale.
CLICK HERE-- To Purchase this Kit at "Speedforsale"
Picture PDF of the new turbo's ---- 10MB 14 high res pictures
Install Kit write-up and instructions---- 2MB
For detailed pictures of the differences between a US and a JDM turbo section, click HERE for a .pdf
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Completed LED Conversion faq's and pics (12-01-07) See Gallery for 3 new LED installs.
June 2009 I have designed circuit boards for the button rows and for the Temp Dial, and for the Fan control inner lights. Even put a LED in the Knob. See this new picture of this Here.
Hopefully, I can sell these as "kits"...more details later. Here is wha they look like.
NEW-Beta testing GT28R-CT12 Conversion Sequential System July 2007.
PDF view of Turbos by BNR
---GT28R's
*New Oil Cooler/PS Cooler V-Mount Install Below~! (July 1, 2007)
*See new Radio install pics below~!
March 2007-Removed FJO and replaced with the new LC-1 LMA-3 XD-16 Wide Band kit with gauge. Now I can log Boost, RPM, Timing, EGT's, and "G" forces.
Following are Pics of my latest Cooling Ideas
Heat Wrapping DP
Brake Duct in WW Scoop
Brake Scoop Hose run
Radiator Scoop
Radiator Scoop and Brake Ducting
Locking Tab for Scoop
Scoop Assembled
Scoop Assembled front side
Looking down from inside car, between IC & Radiator
Assembled before install
On car view of Radiator Scoop
*The Following are pics of my latest Low Budget Stereo Upgrade:
The theory of this install was to use the OEM amp to run the Subwoofer only. The new radio is a Nakamichi CD500 with a built in 50W amp per channel. This is a MP3 player. It has RCA outs, and has 10 different illumination themes. I have chosen *green/green* as being closed to OEM. We have used all integration harnesses purchased on Ebay for about $50 total for all 3. These are used to have the entire system plug and play, no wire cutting whatsoever. We also installed better door and rear speakers. We however kept the OEM subwoofer. This unit sounds extremely awesome. The windows and mirrors actually vibrate from all of the bass. The entire cost for this systems with radio and speakers is approx $700. I want to thank Steve Ishii for all of his help on the wiring diagrams, and Wes for his awesome job in the speaker fabrications.
In Car picture of new Radio (Includes picture of New MMD i-Color and Race-logic locations as well)
New Front Speaker 1
New Front Speaker 2
New Front Speaker 3
New Rear Speaker
New Radio Harness
Location of Speakers harnesses in-car
Wiring Harness diagram-1
Wiring Harness diagram-2
Wiring Harness Install Diagram *with relay switch for antenna*
Picture of Speaker Harnesses IH1 and IH2
In Car Harness pictures
Finished Picture using Green/Green Display (Note Switch in lower right panel cover where I installed my Antenna switch
Same with Amber/Green Display
Same with Green/Red-Night shot
NEW LED conversion to the Climate control assembly
I have spent a couple of years trying to find the best way to do conversions. The soldering of one at a time style was'nt working for me. So I desigend circuit boards for the upper and lower button backlighting, the temp dial, and fan speed dial. This created a much better uniformity of lighting and offered an updated look compared to the dismal green oem appearance. No more "bare" LED legs to mess with. Also gives a higher degree of longevity. There is still more work involved than just the circuit boards. Here is a pdf description of the installation process. There are pictures of a finished unit in the Gallery. I will post more later.
LED Conversion Installation Finished A/C Unit
For more information about the circuitry and all that is this unit, this diagram shows where things are and what values of components. This Diagram is for voltage testing. For Info on part #s for button replacement and knob replacement, plus the standard color's I do, click HERE.
Oil Cooler/Power Steering install
I finally got around re-configuring my Power Steering cooler (required after 3-Row install) so I could incorporate a 19-Row Oil cooler. So I came up with a "V"-Mount approach. I tested it today at a HPDE and my oil temps are now around 200-210 on a 78 degree day, 2 weeks ago I was getting real close to 230 degrees and decided it was time to install this thing.
OIL COOLER PDF: (1.6 megs)
To buy your parts:
You will need the following:
(2) 809010ERL $30.00 EA 90deg 10 AN For Oil Cooler
(2) 824510ERL $34.00 EA 45deg 10 AN For Sandwich Adapter
(1) MOCAL 180 Degree Sandwich adapter SP1T ¾”x16 $85.00
(1) 219010ERL (EP61910) $120.00 EA 19 row cooler (you can change this)
(2) 350610ERL $30.00 Prolite 350 hose (3')
This gives you the complete Oil Bypass/Oil Cooler Temp-a-Cure System
Total with shipping is about $400
